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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.